A Sartorial Mapping of Singapore’s Fashion Districts

By Ruth Francesca Ho

Singapore’s fashion districts, which expanded from the 1950s to the 1990s, are geographical and architectural imprints of Singapore’s changing fashionable aspirations. These dynamic districts reveal how Singapore negotiated an increasingly globalised fashion landscape, reflecting and facilitating greater fashion consciousness and consumption among Singaporeans.

Introduction

From the 1950s to the 1990s, Singapore’s fashion industry was vibrant, with several locations being the hotspot of international and local fashion cultures. While Orchard Road has become synonymous with fashion consumption in Singapore, other retail districts of Singapore have a rich history of fashionability too. This distribution was based on the needs of the locals, from high-end designers located in departmental stores such as Tangs, to unbranded stores in heartland areas that made fashion more accessible.

Key Shopping Areas

Figure 1. An Advertisement promoting the Bata Shoe Fashion Parade, 20 March 1958, (Taken from: *The Singapore Free Press*)

Singapore played host to many fashion shows, most of which happened within the central districts of Beach Road, Hill Street, Orchard Road, and Tiong Bahru. The events which gave the larger Singaporean public a glimpse into the exclusive world of fashion saw the emergence of more provocative styles under the influence of the West. This influence is evident in the Bata advertisement for a shoe parade in Figure 1, where the sinuous and sultry illustration of a woman echoes the Parisian fashionable ideal. The widespread Western influence on local fashion could also be observed on the streets of Tiong Bahru where an excerpt from Singapore Monitor dubbed it the Hollywood of Singapore for being the most fashionable corner of the island in 1984. This was exemplified in the high-rise apartments and the cosmopolitan lifestyle of the residents which mainly comprised courtesans to rich towkays. This Hollywood-influenced style of living was further embodied in the daring dress of the residents who not only wore the latest western styles but also cheongsams with thigh-high slits. This became a concern with the resident nearby church as they described parishioners turning up in “various states of undress” for sporting low necklines and flimsy dresses.

Accessible Shopping

Figure 2. 5 under $50, five women model their best buys from the heartlands (Image taken from the article Hip, Hip array outside orchard road, on-site viewing), 1996. [1]

In 1996, numerous stalls which decorated the corridors under public housing estates were known to provide more affordable yet fashionable alternatives in contrast to those in the premier commercial districts, with the key clients for these stalls being between ages 15 and 30 years old, according to journalist Elisabeth Gwee. Many such retailers were known to stock items similar to those found in the more expensive boutiques and department stores for a fraction of the price. One patron, a student interviewed by Gwee, stated that in contrast to shopping in town, shopping in these Housing Development Board (HDB) stores was more value for money. Figure 2 depicts five women flaunting various outfits pieced together under a budget of SGD50. However, the lack of air-conditioning and dimly lit aisles proved to be challenging for those eagerly combing for a bargain. Plus, customers had to bear in mind the potential concessions to be made on the quality and fit of the garment since they were mass-produced in single sizes. Gwee noted that each store carried on average five dozen of each article of clothing. There were also instances when designers’ names were not correctly reflected on the labels, which customers had to inspect carefully. As the cost of living in Singapore rose, many people from students to office professionals found themselves switching to shopping in the heartlands to keep up with fashion trends at more affordable prices. Thus, many HDB retailers imported new designs weekly to stay current and keep customers coming back.

Figure 3. Four Men Stepping Out In Style In 2nd Chance Fashions, 16 December 1984 (Taken from: *Singapore Monitor*)

Another popular destination for affordable fashion was the East Coast and central Singapore. In the 1980s, People's Park and Parkway Parade were the places to be for fashion-savvy Singaporeans. The store, 2nd Chance (named after owner Mr Salleh Marican’s second attempt at business), was one of the more popular shops out of eight that were located within People’s Park, Parkway Parade, Peninsula Shopping Centre, and Coleman Street. 2nd Chance was popular with the male working class, with items ranging from casual wear to work wear and daily necessities. Mr Salleh notes that the local men at the time were more daring in their styles, choosing colourful patterned shirts with vibrant trimmings in contrast to their western counterparts who preferred monochromatic styles. Beyond keeping up with the latest trends, Mr Salleh emphasised catering to the tastes and needs of locals. His store, therefore, made trendy clothes in cooling fabrics suitable for the tropical climate in an array of colours. In Figure 3, four men are dressed in 2nd Chance fashions with tailored dapper styles and layers despite Singapore’s heat. The store also sponsored seasonal giveaways and rediffusion shows during the Christmas period at Peninsula Shopping Centre.

Fashion in Entertainment

Figure 4. An Advertisement For A Children’s Fashion Show At A Local Amusement Park, 12 December 1970 (Taken from: *The Straits Times*)

Tertiary students and institutions were similarly fond of using fashion shows to raise funds for charity. In an excerpt from The Straits Times in 1970, Nancy Byramji examines the style of a charity walkathon held by the University of Singapore. She states that the gaiety of the students that filled the streets was echoed by their dress as female participants showed up in their flashiest pants, blouses, and mod hats. Another fashion show was hosted by the University of Singapore which featured ten freshmen modelling high fashion outfits ranging from swimwear to formalwear at Lido.

Fashion shows were also a common occurrence to ring in the festive cheer from exclusive events at hotels such as dinners at the Peninsula Hotel to staff contests that spurred a sense of competition and camaraderie at the community centres and shopping malls. One example was during the festive Christmas period when not only the streets in Parkway Parade and Orchard Road were not only decorated to the fullest but the people were dressed to the nines as well. The turnout for these events was usually large, so much so that a 1986 article in The Straits Times compared the crowds of the mammoth music event of the year to that of a fashion show. [2]

Moreover, discotheques located in the central business district were popular locations for young professionals to congregate and flaunt their latest fashions. Chinoiserie at Hyatt Regency, Elite Discotheque at Pan Pacific Hotel, and The Reading Room at Marina Mandarin, were just a few of these discotheques. Attendees would come dressed either in the theme of the night or in casual outfits that were a respite from their executive suits. The discotheques would host weekly themed nights and monthly fashion shows, allowing fashion to be showcased in a more relaxed setting.

Events such as horse races were also popular for people to see fashion and be seen. Despite the inclement weather, the spectators at the Bukit Timah Turf Club were dressed impressively. In Figure 5, two ladies, Ms Joan Brooks and Mrs Norma Goodall wear A-line dresses and coiffed hair while in Figure 6, Mrs A.J. Braga wears a figure-hugging cheongsam ensemble. These ensembles are examples of what was popular at the time. Meanwhile, community centres which hosted fashion contests provided a more accessible alternative to engage in fashion for the masses. The desire to be fashionable continued to persevere a decade later, as shown in Figures 7 and 8 where women and men alike sought out the best-dressed titles at a staff party held at the Sims Avenue Community Centre. The categories were divided into best dressed for modern dress (Figure 7) and national dress (Figure 8).

Department Stores

The rise of the middle class and globalisation saw ushered in the proliferation of department stores along Orchard Road including some of which we are still familiar with today like CK Tang (1932) and Metro (1965). They were one-stop shops that also sought to entertain shoppers with live demonstrations of the latest fashions. In contrast to the lifestyle offerings of CK Tang and Metro, a new departmental store, Saga, opened its doors in 1992 and sought to cater to the needs of the fashion-forward. Saga was a pioneer in the retail industry as its main appeal was its fashion offerings headlined by an estimated 50 Asian designers. This was a departure from the typical departmental stores of the time which were more focused on home appliances, furniture and international brands. Saga thus offered a localised shopping experience with its boutiques selling fashions from leading and emerging designers from Singapore, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and the Philippines. By also offering a hair salon, beauty centre, cafe, and compact disc store, which all featured the best Asia had to offer, the department store quickly became the destination for those looking to explore Asian culture. Mr Ong Jin Seng, director of projects in the Metro store group observed that there was a shift in the mindset of Asian women who were starting to become less brand-conscious since the opening of Saga.

Unfortunately, the rise of so many department stores eventually overwhelmed shoppers and led to the decline of some stores. Mr Gerald Cheng, sales promotion manager at Isetan explained that sales were not increasing in proportion to the crowds at the store. The lack of foot traffic in the shopping districts saw the end of the road for many of the smaller retailers. This had a negative ripple effect on the economy of the district as a whole, as, without stores to cater to those less concerned with fashionability, the district’s appeal was limited only to a small fashion-conscious crowd. [3]

Concluding Remarks: The Spread of Fashion

The expansion of fashion sites all over Singapore indicates the rise of the greater fashion consciousness among the Singaporean public, as many became inspired to consume and produce fashion on their own terms. This is evident in how many Singaporeans sewed their own garments or started their own fashion boutiques or tailoring businesses. This greater interest in fashion also prompted the opening of schools such as LaSalle College International Fashion School[4] , and courses in LASALLE College of the Arts and Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts, as well as grooming courses by modelling schools.

The fashion districts of Singapore’s past, with some that continue to thrive in the present, are geographical and architectural imprints of Singapore’s changing fashionable aspirations. These districts are also a testament to how Singapore negotiates local and international fashion trends to continue to make itself relevant to consumers both locally and internationally.