Roland Chow: The Fashion Designer Known as ‘Mr Dior of Singapore’

By Eldrick Cheong

Once touted as “...the only fashion designer here who faithfully presents his collections to give us a first hand picture of what the rest of the world is wearing”, “Mr Dior of Singapore” and “one of Singapore’s top fashion designers”, the Singaporean fashion designer and hair stylist, Roland Chow is a Singaporean designer who, amidst humble origins, went on to achieve great heights in the world of fashion. Consequently, he made a name not just for himself, but also for Singapore.

Introduction

Once touted as “the only fashion designer here who faithfully presents his collections to give us a first hand picture of what the rest of the world is wearing”, “Mr Dior of Singapore” and “one of Singapore’s top fashion designers”, the Singaporean fashion designer and hair stylist, Roland Chow is a tough act to follow. In fact, it can be said that no one has ever filled his shoes. He was a distinctive figure in the history of fashion within Singapore; Someone who, amidst humble origins, went on to achieve great heights in the world of fashion. Consequently, he made a name not just for himself, but also for Singapore.

Figure 1. Photo of Singaporean designer, Roland Chow (Taken from: NAS)

Humble Origins

In a column run by Singaporean journalist/reporter/editor, Esme Baptista (link to Esme Baptista author article in actual website), she writes about the humble origins of Chow. He first arrived in Malaya from Shanghai in 1947, with the aim of first becoming a teacher. Three years later, he cast this ambition aside and decided to follow his childhood calling of “try[ing] and creat[ing] something with his two bare hands”. He left for Tokyo and took courses in fashion design and hairstyling, once studying under one of the leading hairstylists of that time in France, Roger Valery. Eventually, he succeeded and in 1958, opened his pink and Grey salon named Roland of Coral Company in Coleman Street. This would not be the only salon he would open on the coast of Malaya (or present-day Singapore). In 1958, another store was opened in Orchard Road, with grandeur designs and plush overalls. (One of his salons was handed over to Miss Jane Lim in 1972).

Figure 2. Passport-sized photo of Roland Chow, 1964. (Taken from: The Straits Times)

Fashion Genius

Such achievements may appear commonplace for the many male designers in Europe, such as Christian Dior, whom Chow admires. However, for Chow to have been able to make it as an Asian man (when presumably, there were not many such figures around) speaks much of his capabilities. Indeed, his capabilities are demonstrated in the dresses he designs as well as the myriad of hairstyles that he concocts. Not one to fall behind, Chow put his own spin on the “Si jolie” (“So lovely”) in September 1965, just when this hairstyle was catching on in Europe.

Figure 3. Roland Chow in Paris with fashion model Vera in 1964, 1964. (Taken from: The Straits Times)

But, it was 1964 that Chow took the world by storm. Literally, he halted the traffic in Paris. Draped in clothes of an oriental flair like the cheongsam, the models who stepped out into the street of Paris for a photoshoot attracted a barrage of onlookers so much so that the photographers had to include them in their photographs. This event also reveals an element of Chow’s ingenuity – his mixture of western and eastern looks or fashion. By combining stereotypically eastern materials such as sari materials with a western fit like dresses, Chow crafts pieces of an eastern-western melange that speaks out exclusively to western audiences, and hence, captures their attention inevitably. Of course, Chow also capitalised on exactly the West’s fascination for oriental items as can be seen from how he deliberately brings “western dresses made from…Malaysian silks and brocades” to a conference in New York. [2]

That said, the combination of East and West remains a feature of Chow’s designing oeuvre, albeit not a main staple. In other words, Chow is as capable of designing outfits of mixed heritage as he is of designing outfits that are of a much purer nature. In his first collection of the year 1963, he presented a total of 24 dresses, varying from morning, afternoon, cocktail to evening dresses. This exhibition was inspired by the summer collection produced by the House of Dior in 1963, which largely revolves around the “Effille line”. According to an newspaper article/report, it is stated that

“It is the ‘Effille line” or the tapering line. In other words you have got to follow the basic line of the triangle to be right in fashion.”

Hence, it was such a cut that Chow tried to emulate in his first design of that year. This newspaper feature proved that Chow not only had a good understanding of the latest fashion of his times but also knew how to interpret it to his own advantage, thereby attesting to his ingenuity when it comes to fashion.

Bringing Singapore to the World

Through his original clothing designs, emulations and hairstyles, Chow can be said to have not only brought fashion to the coast of Malaya (then-Singapore), but also refashioned the world’s views and insights into this tiny little coast. His position as a Singaporean who managed to travel across the world to places like New York, Paris and Tokyo created an impression on people and affected upon them the notion of Singapore as being an extremely forward-looking state, capable of partaking in cultural activities such as fashion. Meanwhile, within Singapore, he carried the torch for other men who might have similar aspirations, like Mr Eugene Ong, director and founder of Urbanhair, who commented that he was inspired by Chow in his own hairstyling endeavours.

Indeed, Singapore’s fashion history would have been vastly different if not for this Shanghai-born individual, who decided to obey his life’s calling to take on the fashion industry. Likewise, the impression of Singapore in history, especially in the 60s and 70s, can be said to have been slightly formulated or crafted by the efforts of Chow.